If you’re looking for a new cashmere jumper or scarf, you may come across the term knit gauge and ply.
Knit gauge is a measure of how tightly the garment is knitted, in this instance, with cashmere wool. The term gauge refers to the number of stitches and rows per inch. With 12-gauge there are 12 stitches or rows of yarn per inch, so the Cashmere is relatively dense. With 7-gauge the Cashmere has a more open or mesh-like look and is more light-weight than the 12 gauge if the same yarn is used.
Ply is the number of cashmere strands tightly twisted together to make a finished piece of single cashmere yarn. The higher the ply count, the more the cashmere strands have been twisted together, in turn creating a thicker yarn and a much denser fabric. Put simply, it determines the thickness or density of the cashmere fabric. Cashmere is a very fine hair, but when you twist multiple strands together, it creates a stronger fabric that is more resilient to wear and tear, which is why cashmere items are investments to keep for a long time.
What are the different knit gauges?
16 gauge
16 gauge has 16 stitches or rows of yarn per inch. A 16 gauge cashmere sweater is considered a featherweight, fine knit piece
14 gauge
14 gauge has 14 stitches or rows of yarn per inch.
12 gauge
12 gauge has 12 stitches or rows of yarn per inch, so the cashmere is relatively dense.
9 gauge
9 gauge has 9 stitches or rows of yarn per inch.
7 gauge
7 gauge has 7 stitches or rows of yarn per inch of the knitted cashmere, so the cashmere has an open or mesh-like look and is lighter. It’s commonly used in scarves and wraps for both men’s & women’s items. As items in this gauge contain more cashmere, they are better suited to the colder months.
5 gauge
5 gauge has 5 stitches or rows of yarn per inch. Being the heaviest weight of knit, this is perfect cashmere for the winter.
Do not confuse knit gauge with purity of cashmere
Many retailers and manufacturers of cashmere use their knit gauge claims to disguise the purity of the cashmere clothing items they are selling, encouraging the customer to focus on the gauge rather than the percentage of cashmere content. This is particularly common when they are selling ‘cashmere blends’ – a mix of cashmere and other materials. If you are looking for pure cashmere clothes, always first look for the label 100% Pure Cashmere. Ideally look for 100% Pure Organic Cashmere. This is cashmere that has been certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), ensuring the organic status of textiles from the harvesting of the raw materials in the field through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing of items and on to labelling, in order to provide credible assurances to the consumer.
What are the different Ply?
1-ply
It is the most basic form of yarn, made up of only one strand of cashmere. It is lighter and finer than multi-ply yarns, but not as strong or durable either.
2-ply
2-ply cashmere is made by twisting two strands of cashmere together into one single yarn. In comparison to 1-ply yarn, it is thicker and stronger, resulting in a more substantial fabric.
3-ply
3-ply cashmere is made by twisting three strands of cashmere together into one single yarn. It is thicker and stronger than 2-ply yarn. It is often used to make warm, cosy sweaters and accessories.
4-ply
4-ply cashmere is made by twisting four cashmere strands together into a single yarn. It is very thick and dense, making it ideal for heavy, warm winter clothing.
So, the label “2 ply” or “3 ply” on a cashmere sweater denotes the number of twisted fibre strands that were used to create it. Higher plies such as 4-ply, add additional warmth and weight but do not indicate additional quality.
Also, higher ply counts tend to be more expensive, as they require more yarn to make.